Tackling Rhone Grapes in Paso Robles
By Don Gillette
Terry and Jennifer Hoage met in New Orleans in 1985 She was a young writer and reviewer for New Orleans Magazine, having learned to love the fine wine and food she described while living in Paris in her late teens. He was a young National Football League defensive player for the New Orleans Saints, who had been a Genetics major and an academic and football All-American at the University of Georgia. Marriage in 1987 brought a son, Christopher and a daughter, Natalie.
A College Hall of Fame member, Terry looks back on thirteen NFL seasons. He played for six teams, leading the league in interceptions for the Philadelphia Eagles in 1988 and earning a Superbowl Ring with the Washington Redskins in 1992. Meanwhile, Jennifer's interests led her toward a career in Interior Design. Terry hung up his jersey in 1996.
Terry flirted with corporate employment after his football years, but only convinced himself that a return to outdoor life was a necessity. He and Jennifer decided to devote their energy to grape growing and to put Terry's scientific education to work making wine. They chose the hills of Paso Robles to search for land.
In 2002 the Family purchased their five-acre key-stone vineyard. Planted to Syrah, it had been designed by John Alban, one of California's Rhone grape pioneers and an expert in the local terroir. They have since expanded the Estate to twenty-six acres, seventeen planted. The winery was a true family project, also involving Terry's parents. The materials for the rustic looking structure were brought from Iowa, having been rescued from three barns that were facing destruction.
A Distinctive and Playful Identity
Terry Hoage Vineyards grows and produces varietals associated with France's Rhone Valley exclusively. The Estate's viticultural development and early winemaking efforts were under the direction of Justin Smith, a highly regarded vineyard manager and the owner of Saxum Winery, one of the appellations shining stars. Since 2004, winemaking has been the province of Terry himself, while Justin continues as a valued advisor.
The tightly-spaced vines are planted primarily to Syrah and Grenache. Small blocks of Picpoul Blanc, Grenache Blanc and Gros Manseng are also planted. Mourvedre and Counoise are sourced from a friend. The winery produces red and white blends, along with varietally-labeled Syrah, Grenache, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul Blanc.
The wines thus far have been both rich and distinctive. The labeling has also been unique, sporting amusing references to Terry's football past. The deeply rich 2005 Syrah is called The Hedge, a collegiate reference. University of Georgia footballers play between the hedges that border the athletic field.
Hoage's wonderfully complex Grenache-Syrah blend is designated The 46, in honor of Terry's former defensive coach Buddy Ryan, designer of the famous 46 defensive alignment. Locals get the double-entendre. Highway 46, an east-west access road cuts through steep canyons to the Pacific Ocean. This pass, aka the Templeton Gap, allows coastal air to sweep inland, cooling the vineyards during the otherwise scalding summers.
Another red Rhone blend, The Pick, is zestier and less weighty than The 46. It blends Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Counoise. The two represent different takes on the Chateauneuf-du-Pape model and both versions benefited from the unusual combination of ripeness and vivid fruit acidity Hoage's Grenache crop produced in 2005.
Grenache can produce fine Rose and Terry and Jennifer are justifyably pleased with the delicious 2006 version they call Bam Bam. The nickname is not a fond tribute to Fred and Wilma Flintstone's offspring, at least not directly, but refers to Coach Buddy Ryan's call-signal for a defensive Blitz!
Red Rhone varietals can be buoyant early-drinkers or brutally tannic cellar beasts. Some are broadly rich, while others offer chiseled varietal focus. Some are peppery, some are gamey. Drinkers will find all of these expressions in wines from the Paso Robles appellation. Hoage reds combine varietal clarity with impressive richness and surprising zest. The tannins are low key, but structurally significant, while the wines steer well clear of gamey distractions. They are lovely upon release and improve significantly.
There are four current releases, none white. The Bam Bam Rose is a floral, soft-edged refresher, built for summer picnics. The Hedge is a grandly rich bath of fruity/savory scents and flavors, worthy of a rich beef roast. Both of the red blends are complex and both respond beautifully to airing. I can easily picture enjoying The Pick with many of the herb-accented dishes of Provence, although I might reserve The 46 for a garlicky leg of lamb.